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Coal firing – A Burning Question!
An article by Jim Pitts in consultation with John Coughran, Bill Courtright, Yves Guillaume, and John Shawe. Originally published in Steam in the Garden, Issue No. 57.
Coal was the energy that fueled the fires of the industrial revolution. These magnificent machines literally breathed and left a trail of smoke and cinders across the land. The remembered image of a coal-fired locomotive was an opportunity I wanted to re-create and experience.
Small-scale live steam locomotives present a variety of challenges in both construction and operation. I am confident that among the many motivations that attract persons to this hobby is the opportunity to resolve a variety of engineering questions. When friends ask if I run trains, I respond that usually I spend more time doing maintenance on them than “chasing them.” I like a “hands on” hobby that is unique and offers a supportive network of enthusiasts.
For more than two decades I have operated Gauge 1 locomotives that are fueled by either alcohol/methanol or butane gas. Both traditional fuels have their strengths and supporters. However, always lurking in my mind was the possibility of operating a Gauge 1 coal fired locomotive.
At the annual reunion of small-scale live steamers at Diamondhead, Mississippi, I have admired the occasional locomotive that is coal fired. Several years back, Richard Finlayson had on display the prototype for a coal fired Climax type locomotive being developed by Legend Steam Locomotives.
Learning of my immediate enthusiasm to experience coal firing first hand, Richard helped me to obtain a Roundhouse SR&RL 24 locomotive converted into a coal burner by Shawe Steam Services. In conversation with John Shawe, I learned that this unit was the first of what is now a dozen Roundhouse/Shawe SR&RL 24’s he has transformed to coal firing.
Boiling water in a Gauge 1 coal fired locomotive has presented several challenges. They include: obtaining the proper charcoal; identifying the appropriate lighter fuel; locating a source for coal; and discovering the appropriate technique for building and maintaining a coal fire.
Naturally, these are questions that are not discussed in contemporary popular culture. Such basic, if not primitive, knowledge has become limited. However, I am hopeful that the coal-fired segment in small-scale live steam will experience growth, especially as additional locomotives are made available. The coal-fired crowd will probably not dominate the hobby, but as a friend quipped, “they will certainly make a stink!”
The ingredients to recreate in Gauge 1 “a coal fired experience” include the following essential elements: a locomotive capable of burning coal, the appropriate fuel and an understanding of the basic techniques to both build and maintain a fire.
A Coal Fired LocomotiveFirst consideration is the locomotive. Our counterparts in the United Kingdom, long ago proved that it is not only possible, but also encouraged coal fired locomotives. They were advocates not of mere models, but small “locomotives” that were realistic and really burned coal. The challenge was to create a locomotive that was efficient and economical.
John Shawe relates that Curly Lawrence (LBSC) is the obvious pioneer and really the “Grandfather” of small coal fired engines. He started writing for the Model Engineer magazine in the early twenties, mainly describing 2 1/2" gauge engines and proving that such machines could pull live passengers. He also described Gauge 1 and Gauge 0 coal fired engines.
H. P. Jackson of York also produced some early coal fired Gauge 1 locomotives. These were mainly British prototypes, built to a very high standard of modeling. H P Jackson’s work started in the late twenties or early thirties. John Shawe’s father has a Gauge 1 North Eastern 0-6-0 that Jackson built in approx 1942. When John was about 8 years old, this particular locomotive became his inspiration for coal firing
John Shawe states “No history of Gauge 1 coal firing is complete without mention of these two pioneers: Curly Lawrence and H. P. Jackson. There were others, but I think they were the most prolific. It is probably true that without Curly the hobby as we know it would not exist.”
Today, both John Barrett and John Shawe are actively involved in producing coal-fired locomotives.
Barrett Engineering [1] offers several ready to run coal-fired locomotives. Current productions include: BR 4-62 Britannia and SR Merchant Navy/W Country. An LMS 2-6-0+0-6-2 ‘Garratt” will be available Winter 2000. An LMS 4-6-2 ‘Princess’ and LMS 4-6-2 ‘Duchess’ will be available Spring 2001.
Shawe Steam Services [2] offers a wide range coal fired engines. Many are conversions of either Aster or Roundhouse products. This past January (2000) at Diamondhead he demonstrated his craftsmanship by operating an Aster “Jumbo” that he had converted to coal firing.
Presently, John is transforming an Aster USRA Mikado into a coal burning locomotive. With its bulk and boiler, the Mikado is a natural candidate for coal. It’s inaugural America debut will be in Diamondhead during the 2001 International Small Scale Steam up.
Shawe / Roundhouse coal fired locomotives include: Ace (Lynton and Barnstaple 2-6-2T) , Atlantic (Argyle 0-6-2T), Black Adder (Fowler 0-6-2), Helga William 0-4-0), Jack saddle tank, and the Sandy River and Rangeley Lakes #24 (2-6-2). Most are available with either manual or radio control.
Aster Hobby Company occasionally produces a locomotive that can be fired by either butane gas or coal. The butane burner is removed and the operator inserts grates into the firebox. Locomotives offering this feature include: JNR C62, UP Big Boy, SNCF 232U1, and the Beyer Garratt AD-60. Aster’s forthcoming C&O Allegheny promises both gas and coal firing.
Building a Fire
Once the appropriate locomotive is secured, then its time to boil water the old fashioned way. The basic ingredients include: steam distilled water (Aster cautions that “deionized” water can damage boiler seams that are soldered), steam oil, “real wood” charcoal, lighter fluid and coal.
First I inspect the locomotive, tighten fittings and lubricate the axle pump, wheel bearings, side rods, cross heads, etc. Then, I fill the boiler and tender with water. Be sure to leave enough room in the boiler for the creation of steam. Next, I fill the lubricator with steam oil.
In preparation for firing, I have broken the charcoal into small pieces and soaked them in a lighter fluid. The charcoal should be real wood charcoal, not compressed sawdust like used in briquettes for the barbeque grill. Such charcoal can be obtained at grocery stores that cater to the gourmet cooks. Another ready source for charcoal that is already sized properly in granulated pieces is available from Garden Shops. Scotts’ brand Charcoal in 2 lb bags for potting plants is excellent. This avoids the dirty job of processing the charcoal into small pieces.
To facilitate lighting, the charcoal should be pre-soaked in a lighter fluid. Some small-scale engineers use alcohol. If this is your choice, be careful not to transfer your flame back to your charcoal source with your shovel. Others use a less volatile lighter, such as charcoal lighter fluid or kerosene. However, I have found these fuels leave an oily residue.
John Shawe advised that I use “paraffin.” After obtaining paraffin wax, like that used in sealing jelly jars, I realized that he was speaking of something different. I learned that paraffin in the UK means “lamp oil.” Lamp oil is available in better gift shops and hardware stores. An ultra-pure smokeless and odorless Candle and Lamp Oil that is 99% pure liquid wax paraffin is manufactured by Lamplight Farms. [3] Following Shawe’s recommendation, I have found lamp oil or “paraffin” to be the preferred wetting agent.
Charcoal that has been soaked in lamp oil should be shoveled into the firebox until it reaches the bottom of the fire door. Then, it should be ignited. Immediately, close the fire door and place an external (battery powered) suction fan on the smoke stack to create a draft. Bill Courtright technique is to start the electric draft and then light the fire . While the fire is beginning to build, load the tender with coal . Welsh Coal
Obtaining a source for Welsh Steam Coal on the American side of the Atlantic is a challenge. Ron Brown, editor of Steam in the Garden, had coal shipped to me from New York. This was reported to be Pennsylvania Anthracite. Beautiful grains of coal, water washed and still wet inside a 20 lb plastic bag. After drying in the summer sun, I find that it crackled and popped, but when it burned it left large clinkers that clogged the fire grates. Other coal sources were sampled. With hammer in hand, the black diamonds were cracked and sifted. Still the fire was not as efficient as I desired.
Finally, seeking the assistance of a veteran live steamer, both a 7 ½ gauge operator and Gauge 1 dealer, Bob Moser delivered to me a lifetime supply of genuine Welsh Steam Coal. Unfortunately, the size was that of acorns, so again I was back to breaking and sifting coal to grain size. My preference is for grains approximating an adult’s small fingernail. Welsh Steam Coal is the fuel of choice for small-scale steam fireboxes . To locate Welsh Steam Coal for Gauge 1 locomotives, contact a local 7-½-gauge steam club for “ride on” steam locomotive enthusiasts. Among the stateside suppliers is Reel EFX. Inc. [4] that supplies Dr. Clinker’s Welsh Coal in bean or small nut size. In the United Kingdom, a supplier for Welsh Dry Steam Coal in grains or beans suitable for small coal fired locomotives is Signal Fuels (Pre-Packed). [5]
Since beginning my research Paul Trevaskis of Rishon Locomotives has supplied me with a small quantity of Australian Char to check out as a source for fuel. This fuel also offers promise for Gauge 1 firing. However, Bill Courtright says emphatically “there is no substitute that measures up to genuine Welsh coal.”
Back to the Fire
Back to the fire, as a bed of charcoal is established, gradually began adding coal to the fire. As the coal begin to ignite, add more. Once the pressure gauge registers 20 psi, turn on the locomotive’s steam blower and remove the external (battery powered) suction fan. Keep the fire door closed other than when shoveling in coal.
Continue to add coal, a little bit at a time, making sure than it is level in the fire box, covering the corners, so as not to create a hole in the fire. A thin fire or one with a hole in the bed of coals allows air to push through and the fire dies. Efficient coal burning locomotives are designed with a deep grate. Keeping the fire as far up as the fire door helps prevent a hole in the bed of coals.
A coal fire burns very hot. So you will need to continue to monitor the water level. Until the locomotive is underway and the axle pump activated, you will want to manually pump water into the boiler. During the run, the axle pump and water-by-pass valve will need to be adjusted to match the locomotive load. On operating the axle-driven water pump some say either have the pump on or off, and trying to adjust midway is a waste of time! The blower can be reduced if not completely cut off depending on the speed of the engine. However, when the locomotive comes to a stop, the blower should be open.
Until one learns the particular characteristics of a locomotive, coal firing requires more hands on attention than gas or alcohol. There is a rhythm of understanding and interaction between the operator and the locomotive.
Yves Guillaume has found over the years that his all Aster collection of coal burning locomotives operate very satisfactorily on a mixture or "cocktail" as he calls it, of hard charcoal, anthracite and bituminous (smoking) coal. For example, when operating his SNCF 232 UI Locomotive, after a good fire is obtained with charcoal, two to three full scoops of anthracite are added and spread over the burning charcoal with a poker.
After the anthracite is well lit, a scoop of bituminous coal is finally added for smoke effect (and smell!) and within a few seconds as steam pressure builds up to maximum and the safety valve pops, the locomotive is off and running with all the realism of its full size counterpart.
I have found another way to enhance aroma. Add a few wood chips of hickory or mesquite to the fire. This will certainly confuse the neighbors. They will think that a barbeque is underway.
To deliver the coal to the firebox, some small-scale engineers prefer a small coal shovel, others prefer a scoop, such as supplied with Aster locomotives. During refueling, a pick can be used to clear the ash and clinker build up on the fire grate. On removing ash and/or clinker, the pick can access the grate from underneath and not disturb the fire if you make sure you do this when your fire is built up and strong.
Cleaning the locomotive
Following the operation, after dropping the fire and once the engine is cool, you will want to clean the grates, sweep the fire tubes and remove the ash from the smoke box. Then it is time to wipe the locomotive down and prepare its next run or for storage. Because of the grime on the locomotive, WD 40 or other similar light oil lubricant is used to wash off the grime and polish and the cool locomotive.
Bill Courtright is noted for his spotless and efficient Roundhouse / Shawe Sandy River #24. His time spent cleaning is approximately 1 hour cleaning to every 1 or 2 hours of running. Always cleaning the same day as the run prevents corrosion to the flues, fire grates and smoke box.
Coal firing is a dynamic process
Anyone who is considering coal firing must realize that all factors leading to keeping your locomotive running are dynamic. They are constantly changing and you must keep up with the changes or as anything alive will do, it'll die on you. Because of this, the locomotive does seem like it is alive even more than the gas fired models, where most of the time you are at least dealing with a constant fire. “I love the challenge of running my coal fired Sandy River #24,” Bill Courtright exclaims. “Everything else pales by comparison! So far my longest run is 2 hours 48minutes. Running these little coal-fired engines is doable and immensely rewarding.”
As John Shawe reminds in his coaching session with coal firing novices, “practice makes perfect.” As I have discovered, coal firing is 25% knowledge and 75% technique. Remember with a coal-fired locomotive, you have the opportunity to be both engineer and fireman. The glow from the firebox, the aroma of coal smoke, and the hiss of steam combine in a miniature re-creation of the real thing.
______________________________________ To contact Jim Pitts by e-mail: jimpitts@southernsteamtrains.com [1] Barrett Engineering, 120 Field Lane, Pelsall, Walshall, WS4 IDQ E-mail john@barrettengineering.fsnet.co.uk. [2] Shaw Steam Services, Ltd. Howgate, Kimpton Road, Welwyn, Herts. AL69NN, UK jshawe@hotmail.com [3] Lamplight Farms, Menonomee Falls, WI 53051. www.lamplightfarms.com [4] Reel EFX, Inc, 5539 Riverton Avenue, N. Hollywood, CA 91601 (888) 733-5339. www.reelefx.com
[5]
Signal Fuels (Pre-Packed), Provident Street Garage, Ripley, Derbys DE5
3HY. Phone 91773 747027 or Fax 01294 452443.
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The pungent smell and plume of coal smoke, the glow of a
firebox radiating from a miniature locomotive, combine to form the ultimate
re-creation portraying all the beauty and brute strength of real railroading.