The pungent smell and plume of coal smoke, the glow of a
firebox radiating from a miniature locomotive, combine to form the ultimate
re-creation portraying all the beauty and brute strength of real railroading.
From high iron main lines to short lines with grass covered rails, coal
fired steam locomotives once were the norm.
Coal was the energy that fueled the fires of the industrial revolution.
These magnificent machines literally breathed and left a trail of smoke
and cinders across the land. The
remembered image of a coal-fired locomotive was an opportunity I wanted to
re-create and experience.
Small-scale live steam locomotives present a variety of
challenges in both construction and operation.
I am confident that among the many motivations that attract persons to
this hobby is the opportunity to resolve a variety of engineering questions.
When friends ask if I run trains, I respond that usually I spend more
time doing maintenance on them than “chasing them.”
I like a “hands on” hobby that is unique and offers a supportive
network of enthusiasts.
For more than two decades I have operated Gauge 1
locomotives that are fueled by either alcohol/methanol or butane gas.
Both traditional fuels have their strengths and supporters.
However, always lurking in my mind was the possibility of operating a
Gauge 1 coal fired locomotive.
At the annual reunion of small-scale live steamers at
Diamondhead, Mississippi, I have admired the occasional locomotive that is
coal fired. Several years
back, Richard Finlayson had on display the prototype for a coal fired Climax
type locomotive being developed by Legend Steam Locomotives.
Learning of my immediate enthusiasm to experience coal
firing first hand, Richard helped me to obtain a Roundhouse SR&RL 24
locomotive converted into a coal burner by Shawe Steam Services.
In conversation with John Shawe, I learned that this unit was the first
of what is now a dozen Roundhouse/Shawe SR&RL 24’s he has transformed to
coal firing.
Boiling water in a Gauge 1 coal fired locomotive has
presented several challenges. They
include: obtaining the proper charcoal; identifying the appropriate lighter
fuel; locating a source for coal; and discovering the appropriate technique
for building and maintaining a coal fire.
Naturally, these are questions that are not discussed in
contemporary popular culture. Such
basic, if not primitive, knowledge has become limited.
However, I am hopeful that the coal-fired segment in small-scale live
steam will experience growth, especially as additional locomotives are made
available. The coal-fired crowd
will probably not dominate the hobby, but as a friend quipped, “they will
certainly make a stink!”
The ingredients to recreate in Gauge 1 “a coal fired
experience” include the following essential elements: a locomotive capable
of burning coal, the appropriate fuel and an understanding of the basic
techniques to both build and maintain a fire.
A Coal Fired Locomotive
First consideration is the locomotive.
Our counterparts in the United Kingdom, long ago proved that it is not
only possible, but also encouraged coal fired locomotives.
They were advocates not of mere models, but small “locomotives”
that were realistic and really burned coal.
The challenge was to create a locomotive that was efficient and
economical.
John Shawe relates that Curly Lawrence (LBSC) is the obvious pioneer and
really the “Grandfather” of small coal fired engines. He started writing
for the Model Engineer magazine in the early twenties, mainly
describing 2 1/2" gauge engines and proving that such machines could pull
live passengers. He also described Gauge 1 and Gauge 0 coal fired engines.
H.
P. Jackson of York also produced some early coal fired Gauge 1 locomotives.
These were mainly British prototypes, built to a very high standard of
modeling. H P Jackson’s work
started in the late twenties or early thirties. John Shawe’s father has a
Gauge 1 North Eastern 0-6-0 that Jackson built in approx 1942.
When John was about 8 years old, this particular locomotive became his
inspiration for coal firing
John
Shawe states “No history of Gauge 1 coal firing is complete without mention
of these two pioneers: Curly Lawrence and H. P. Jackson. There were others,
but I think they were the most prolific. It is probably true that without
Curly the hobby as we know it would not exist.”
Today, both John Barrett and John Shawe are actively
involved in producing coal-fired locomotives.
Barrett Engineeringoffers several ready to run coal-fired locomotives.
Current productions include: BR 4-62 Britannia and SR Merchant Navy/W
Country. An LMS 2-6-0+0-6-2 ‘Garratt”
will be available Winter 2000. An
LMS 4-6-2 ‘Princess’ and LMS 4-6-2 ‘Duchess’ will be available Spring
2001.
Shawe Steam Services offers a wide range coal fired engines.
Many are conversions of either Aster or Roundhouse products.
This past January (2000) at Diamondhead he demonstrated his
craftsmanship by operating an Aster “Jumbo” that he had converted to coal
firing.
Presently, John is transforming an Aster
USRA Mikado into a coal burning locomotive. With its bulk and boiler, the
Mikado is a natural candidate for coal. It’s
inaugural America debut will be in Diamondhead during the 2001 International
Small Scale Steam up.
Shawe / Roundhouse coal fired locomotives include: Ace
(Lynton and Barnstaple 2-6-2T) , Atlantic (Argyle 0-6-2T), Black Adder (Fowler
0-6-2), Helga William 0-4-0), Jack saddle tank, and the Sandy River and
Rangeley Lakes #24 (2-6-2). Most
are available with either manual or radio control.
Aster Hobby Company occasionally produces a locomotive that can be fired by
either butane gas or coal. The butane burner is removed and the operator inserts grates
into the firebox. Locomotives
offering this feature include: JNR C62, UP Big Boy, SNCF 232U1, and the Beyer
Garratt AD-60. Aster’s
forthcoming C&O Allegheny promises both
gas and coal firing.
Building a Fire
Once the appropriate locomotive is secured, then its time
to boil water the old fashioned way. The
basic ingredients include: steam distilled water (Aster cautions that “deionized”
water can damage boiler seams that are soldered), steam oil, “real wood”
charcoal, lighter fluid and coal.
First I inspect the locomotive, tighten fittings and
lubricate the axle pump, wheel bearings, side rods, cross heads, etc.
Then, I fill the boiler and tender with water.
Be sure to leave enough room in the boiler for the creation of steam.
Next, I fill the lubricator with steam oil.
In preparation for firing, I have broken the charcoal
into small pieces and soaked them in a lighter fluid. The charcoal should be real wood charcoal, not compressed
sawdust like used in briquettes for the barbeque grill. Such charcoal can be obtained at grocery stores that cater to
the gourmet cooks. Another ready
source for charcoal that is already sized properly in granulated pieces is
available from Garden Shops. Scotts’
brand Charcoal in 2 lb bags for potting plants is excellent.
This avoids the dirty job of processing the charcoal into small pieces.
To facilitate lighting, the charcoal should be pre-soaked
in a lighter fluid. Some
small-scale engineers use alcohol. If
this is your choice, be careful not to transfer your flame back to your
charcoal source with your shovel. Others
use a less volatile lighter, such as charcoal lighter fluid or kerosene. However, I have found these fuels leave an oily residue.
John Shawe advised that I use “paraffin.”
After obtaining paraffin wax, like that used in sealing jelly jars, I
realized that he was speaking of something different.
I learned that paraffin in the UK means “lamp oil.”
Lamp oil is available in better gift shops and hardware stores. An ultra-pure smokeless and odorless Candle and Lamp Oil that
is 99% pure liquid wax paraffin is manufactured by Lamplight Farms. Following Shawe’s
recommendation, I have found lamp oil or “paraffin” to be the preferred
wetting agent.
Charcoal that has been soaked in lamp oil should be
shoveled into the firebox until it reaches the bottom of the fire door.
Then, it should be ignited. Immediately,
close the fire door and place an external (battery powered) suction fan on the
smoke stack to create a draft. Bill Courtright technique is to start the
electric draft and then light the fire
.
While the fire is beginning to build, load the tender
with coal
.
Welsh Coal
Obtaining a source for Welsh Steam Coal on the American
side of the Atlantic is a challenge. Ron
Brown, editor of Steam in the Garden, had coal shipped to me from New
York. This was reported to be
Pennsylvania Anthracite. Beautiful
grains of coal, water washed and still wet inside a 20 lb plastic bag.
After drying in the summer sun, I find that it crackled and popped, but
when it burned it left large clinkers that clogged the fire grates.
Other coal sources were sampled. With
hammer in hand, the black diamonds were cracked and sifted.
Still the fire was not as efficient as I desired.
Finally, seeking the assistance of a veteran live
steamer, both a 7 ½ gauge operator and Gauge 1 dealer, Bob Moser delivered to
me a lifetime supply of genuine Welsh Steam Coal.
Unfortunately, the size was that of acorns, so again I was back to
breaking and sifting coal to grain size. My preference is for grains
approximating an adult’s small fingernail.
Welsh Steam Coal is the fuel of choice for small-scale steam fireboxes
.
To locate Welsh Steam Coal for Gauge 1 locomotives,
contact a local 7-½-gauge steam club for “ride on” steam locomotive
enthusiasts. Among the stateside
suppliers is Reel EFX. Inc. that supplies Dr. Clinker’s Welsh Coal in bean or small nut size.
In the United Kingdom, a supplier for Welsh Dry Steam Coal in grains or beans
suitable for small coal fired locomotives is Signal Fuels (Pre-Packed).
Since beginning my research Paul Trevaskis of Rishon
Locomotives has supplied me with a small quantity of Australian Char to check
out as a source for fuel. This
fuel also offers promise for Gauge 1 firing.
However, Bill Courtright says emphatically “there is no substitute
that measures up to genuine Welsh coal.”
Back to the Fire
Back to the fire, as a bed of charcoal is established,
gradually began adding coal to the fire.
As the coal begin to ignite, add more.
Once the pressure gauge registers 20 psi, turn on the locomotive’s
steam blower and remove the external (battery powered) suction fan. Keep the fire door closed other than when shoveling in coal.
Continue to add coal, a little bit at a time, making sure than it is level in
the fire box, covering the corners, so as not to create a hole in the fire.
A thin fire or one with a hole in the bed of coals allows air to push
through and the fire dies. Efficient
coal burning locomotives are designed with a deep grate.
Keeping the fire as far up as the fire door helps prevent a hole in the
bed of coals.
A
coal fire burns very hot. So you
will need to continue to monitor the water level.
Until the locomotive is underway and the axle pump activated, you will
want to manually pump water into the boiler.
During the run, the axle pump and water-by-pass valve will need to be
adjusted to match the locomotive load. On
operating the axle-driven water pump some say either have the pump on or off,
and trying to adjust midway is a waste of time!
The blower can be reduced if not completely cut off depending on the
speed of the engine. However,
when the locomotive comes to a stop, the blower should be open.
Until one learns the particular characteristics of a
locomotive, coal firing requires more hands on attention than gas or alcohol.
There is a rhythm of understanding and interaction between the operator
and the locomotive.
Yves
Guillaume has found over the years that his all Aster collection of coal
burning locomotives operate very satisfactorily on a mixture or
"cocktail" as he calls it, of hard charcoal, anthracite and
bituminous (smoking) coal. For example, when operating his SNCF 232 UI
Locomotive, after a good fire is obtained with charcoal, two to three full
scoops of anthracite are added and spread over the burning charcoal with a
poker.
After
the anthracite is well lit, a scoop of bituminous coal is finally added for
smoke effect (and smell!) and within a few seconds as steam pressure builds up
to maximum and the safety valve pops, the locomotive is off and running with
all the realism of its full size counterpart.
I
have found another way to enhance aroma.
Add a few wood chips of hickory or mesquite to the fire.
This will certainly confuse the neighbors.
They will think that a barbeque is underway.
To deliver the coal to the firebox, some small-scale engineers prefer a small
coal shovel, others prefer a scoop, such as supplied with Aster locomotives.
During refueling, a pick can be used to clear the ash and clinker build
up on the fire grate. On removing ash and/or clinker, the pick can access the grate
from underneath and not disturb the fire if you make sure you do this when
your fire is built up and strong.
Cleaning the
locomotive
Following the operation, after dropping the fire and once
the engine is cool, you will want to clean the grates, sweep the fire tubes
and remove the ash from the smoke box. Then
it is time to wipe the locomotive down and prepare its next run or for
storage. Because of the grime on
the locomotive, WD 40 or other similar light oil lubricant is used to wash off
the grime and polish and the cool locomotive.
Bill
Courtright is noted for his spotless and efficient Roundhouse / Shawe Sandy
River #24. His time spent
cleaning is approximately 1 hour cleaning to every 1 or 2 hours of running.
Always cleaning the same day as the run prevents corrosion to the
flues, fire grates and smoke box.
Coal firing is a
dynamic process
Anyone
who is considering coal firing must realize that all factors leading to
keeping your locomotive running are dynamic.
They are constantly changing and you must keep up with the changes or
as anything alive will do, it'll die on you.
Because of this, the locomotive does seem like it is alive even more
than the gas fired models, where most of the time you are at least dealing
with a constant fire. “I love
the challenge of running my coal fired Sandy River #24,” Bill Courtright
exclaims. “Everything else
pales by comparison! So far my
longest run is 2 hours 48minutes. Running
these little coal-fired engines is doable and immensely rewarding.”
As John Shawe reminds in his coaching session with coal firing novices, “practice
makes perfect.” As I have
discovered, coal firing is 25% knowledge and 75% technique.
Remember with a coal-fired locomotive, you have the opportunity to be
both engineer and fireman. The
glow from the firebox, the aroma of coal smoke, and the hiss of steam combine
in a miniature re-creation of the real thing.
