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Installing the
Aster Mikado Axle Pump
by Joe Betsko
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If you have bought the Aster USRA (Black) Mikado
kit and intend to install the axle pump, then do not proceed past Section 6
until you have the axle pump kit in possession and ready to install.
For purposes of these notes: a Kitbuilder
is one who is assembling the pump in sequence with the overall kit; a
Retrofitter is one who has already completed the Mikado kit and is
subsequently installing the pump.
The notes below are intended to be used in
conjunction with the original Aster assembly instructions;
SECTION 6B
AXLE PUMP ASSEMBLY NOTES
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1. Retrofitters: remove the 14-2 cab and
14-3 end plate. Don't put both SB4 balls into the 6B-10 pump body; otherwise,
the other ball will fall out. For now, place one SB4 ball into the top half of
the 6B-10 pump body. The top half is the only half with a seat for the SB4 ball.
Make sure that SB4 ball seats correctly. The 6B-12 banjo bolt is identified as
having a notched out slot.
2. Straightforward per Aster assembly
instructions.
3. Perform this after step 5.
4. The remaining banjo bolt, 6B-8, is identified
as having a seat for the remaining SB4 ball which can be added at this time. Do
not fit the 6B-9 pipe to the 6B-16 end beam yet.
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Kitbuilders:
hold off on installing the back three 6-5 break beams,6-4 break shoes and 6-6
break beam rods until the axle pump is assembled.
Retrofitters:
remove the back three 6-5 break beams,6-4 break shoes and 6-6 break beam rods
which can be refitted after the axle pump is assembled.
5. Loosely fasten the 6B-7 lock nut over the
6B-10 pump body.
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Retrofitter:
remove the E2 clip from section 13 and remove trailer truck frame assembly from
the center pin of the frame.
Retrofitters and Kitbuilders:
you should notice a notch on either side of the center pin. Position the 6B-10
pump body over the second cross-tie from the back and temporarily tighten the
6B-7 lock nut over the 6B-10 pump body. Both pipes should be routed through
these notches as close to the frame as possible. Please note that shaping the
pipes involve some trial and error. These pipes should be routed as close as
possible to the top and side of the frame to avoid fouling the trailer truck
frame.
Once satisfied with the pipe routing, it is time
to fit the 6B-17 angle (or 11-2 pipe angle for Retrofitters) on the frame.
Retrofitters:
remove the existing jumper pipe from the check valve to the 11-2 pipe angle.
This pipe will not be used again in assembling the axle pump.
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Kitbuilders and Retrofitters:
perform step 3 while fastening the LN5 lock nut loosely, for now, to allow
enough play to tighten the compression fitting from the jumper pipe. Once the
compression fitting is on tightly, then completely fasten the LN5 lock nut.
6. Straightforward per Aster assembly
instructions.
7. Perform this after step 9.
8. Straightforward per Aster because previous
steps have led to the final mounting.
9. Use P-4 set screws to fasten eccentric cam to
axle. The eccentric cam should be centered between the frame and in line with
the 6B-10 pump body. Put some machine oil on the eccentric cam. At this time,
assemble the eccentric rod components over the eccentric cam with B10 screws.
The instructions from step 7 can now be followed.
Retrofitters
can now fasten the 6B-9 pipe to the the 6B-16 end beam. Refit the 14-2 cab, the
back three 6-5 break beams,6-4 break shoes and 6-6 break beam rods. Retrofitters
will find that the axle pump will require a break-in period.
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The pipes under and inside the tender... If you
have already installed the hand pump and saved the diagram, the illustration
shows how to fit the return pipe inside the tender. As for underneath the
tender, the pipes need to be crossed so that the pipes terminate directly in
line with their respective connections on the engine.
The supplied rubber hoses may be replaced with
1/8" inside diameter automotive vacuum hose and fastened with a black plastic
clamp suitable for the outside diameter of the hose.
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OPERATION:
1. To fill the boiler with the axle pump while
running, close the bypass valve to block return flow to the tender.
2. To return some water to the tender, open the
bypass valve slightly when the sight glass indicates the boiler is approximately
2/3 full when running.
3. To keep the sight glass indicating that the
boiler is slightly more than half full while running, crack the valve open about
1/8 turn. Trial and error will define the optimum bypass valve position.
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Appreciation is expressed to Joe Betsko for
permission to post his article and pictures on
www.SouthernSteamTrains.com
Article and pictures © Joe Betsko.
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